Once in a while, there comes along a book that is downright entertaining. I've been reading one such book lately, and it happens to be a cookbook: Make the Bread, Buy the Butter: What You Should and Shouldn't Cook from Scratch by Jennifer Reese. The book contains plenty of practical information and recipes for the home cook, and the author's voice is genuine and funny, which made this book an interesting and enjoyable read.
The premise of the book is that the author looks around at all the various foods we can buy in the supermarket and in restaurants, and asks the question: Is it better to buy this food or to make it at home? "Better" is measured in terms of cost, convenience, taste and time.
While setting up the premise of the book, Reese mentions Uncrustables- the frozen (and crustless) peanut butter and jelly sandwiches sold by the brand Smuckers. I completely identified with this example because I remember being completely baffled and annoyed when I heard about this particular product many years ago. My inner monologue went something like this: They sell frozen PB & J because it is too much work to slap some peanut butter (from a jar) and jam (from another jar) onto bread (from a bag)? Come. On. What is the world coming to, blah blah. But Reese talks about how, not too long ago, people would have been equally baffled by the fact that someone would buy bread or peanut butter or jam at a store instead of making their own. She points out that it is rather an arbitrary line about what one buys and what one makes.
Reese goes on to discuss dozens of foods, and her take on whether it should be bought or made from scratch. And she's dead serious about trying to make things from scratch- she keeps chickens for eggs and meat, and bees for honey. She sweats away in the kitchen making things like glazed donuts and hot dogs from scratch. Even though I pretty much skipped over her chapters on keeping livestock and curing meats, it was incredibly fun to follow along and see what her experiences were like. For each food, she issues her verdict: Make it or buy it? And how much hassle is involved in making it?
It goes without saying that how one weighs cost, time, taste and hassle is very subjective and each home cook would have their own line in the sand, so to speak, about what to make and what to buy. As an aside, I've seen peeled hard-boiled eggs sold in a plastic pouch (Trader Joe's) so I guess these lines in the sand can be miles apart.
Based on my personal experience, here's a list in similar style to this book, about what I choose to make and what I buy. This list has evolved since I started to cook, and will further change as I go along, I'm sure of it.
Ghee: Make it.
Hassle: Minimal; you only have to occasionally watch a pot of simmering butter for an hour or so. And I do buy the butter- unsalted.
Notes: Homemade ghee tastes wonderful and it is a staple part of my favorite comfort food dinners like varan-bhaat and khichdi and to make ghee rice and peas pulao for company. I'm spoiled now and I won't ever go back to buying ghee.
Yogurt: Make it.
Hassle: Minimal; you simply stir live yogurt cultures into warm milk and leave it in a warm spot for a few hours before refrigerating.
Notes: There are so many reasons to switch to making yogurt at home. Homemade yogurt tastes fantastic- none of the sticky texture of some brands you buy. You can strain it to make Greek-style yogurt. Making yogurt at home saves money and packaging. I use yogurt in place of sour cream in most recipes.
Paneer: Buy it.
Hassle: Not much hassle, actually. Just add lemon juice to boiling milk, strain away the whey and press the solids.
Notes: It takes a whole lotta milk to make a small amount of paneer, and my homemade paneer is never as soft and tasty as my favorite brand- Nanak from Canada. We use paneer only once in a while, anyway. So I've stopped making it at home.
Idli and dosa batter: Make it.
Hassle: It takes a little planning to soak and grind and ferment the batter but is easy enough if you own a good mixie or stone electric grinder.
Notes: My friend in Atlanta and my sister in Bangalore, for instance, don't make their own idli/dosa batter because they have access to freshly made batter sold locally. I don't have that option and I'm fine with that. I happily use my grinder to make vast quantities of batter. And I can make customize the batter with brown rice or whatever else.
Rotis: Buy it.
Hassle: Kneading, rolling and griddle-baking; technically not too much of a hassle but roti making is a skill for sure.
Notes: I am singularly untalented when it comes to making rotis. They turn out too chewy or dense and just not very appealing. I buy whole-wheat tortillas to use as rotis. If you can, make them by all means.
Bread, including sliced bread, rolls and pizza crust: Make and buy.
Hassle: Bread making is certainly a hassle what with mixing and kneading (of course there are all the no-knead recipes), rising, baking, worrying, washing up. But bread making is also therapeutic and the aroma of baking bread makes a house smell like home. There are some things money can't buy.
Notes: Over the years, I've made lots of bread and bought lots of it too. When you have time, it is so worth making bread.
Beans: Make it.
Hassle: With a pressure cooker, there's no hassle at all. You just need to remember to soak the beans overnight if possible.
Notes: Dried beans are much cheaper than canned ones and they taste better to me. But I do keep a couple of cans of beans at home for really busy days when I need a last minute meal.
Spices: Make and buy (and swap).
Hassle: Minimal hassle to make spice mixes- you just need a small spice/coffee grinder.
Notes: In the US, "ethnic" stores such as the ones where Indian groceries are sold are a good source for fresh and inexpensive spices compared to supermarkets and gourmet stores. Once you buy whole spices, it is easy to make your own blends. But there are certain brands of spice mixes that I also like to buy.
Ginger Garlic Paste: Make it.
Hassle: It takes only a few minutes to peel and roughly chop fresh ginger and garlic, then 1-2 more minutes to blend it into a smooth paste with a little salt.
Notes: I've used bottled ginger garlic paste for years before I made my own, and it worked fine. Make it if you have time, otherwise, buy it. But it is an awesome fridge staple for quick, tasty meals so keep it on hand no matter what.
Tamarind chutney: Make it.
Hassle: None, just simmer a few ingredients together on the stove- my recipe is here and these days I just simmer baking dates (sold in a slab), tamarind paste and jaggery for a no-straining-required version.
Notes: Homemade tamarind chutney is cheaper and tastier than anything you can buy. And you'll use dates instead of loading it up with refined sugar. There's also the question of whether to buy tamarind (and extract the pulp yourself) or whether to buy tamarind paste. I've done both; these days I use tamarind paste that comes in a jar.
Pickles: Make and Buy it.
Hassle: Not much hassle to just clean and chop veggies and mix with spices.
Notes: Although it is easy enough to make pickles, and there are so many wonderful recipes out there, I do end up buying bottled Indian pickles while occasionally making my own. I'd love to make pickles this summer- both Indian style and pickled cucumbers in vinegar/brine, American style.
Jam: Buy it.
Hassle: Canning scares me. On the other hand, freezer jam seems to be very easy to make.
Notes: I buy good quality jam and marmalade (and often get these as gifts). We eat jam so rarely that it doesn't seem worthwhile to make it.
Peanut Butter, Almond Butter, Tahini: Buy it.
Hassle: Minimal, cleaning sticky nut butter from the food processor is probably the only hassle here.
Notes: It is too easy to buy good quality nut butters so that's what I do. I might try making peanut butter in the future though.
Pasta Sauce: Make it.
Hassle: Not much hassle at all to simmer tomato sauce on the stove, especially if you start with canned tomatoes as I do.
Notes: Bottled/jarred pasta sauce is likely to be loaded with salt and sugar and various things that have no place in pasta sauce so it is completely worthwhile to make your own.
Pasta and noodles: Buy it.
Hassle: Quite a hassle, and most recipes call for a pasta maker.
Notes: There's so much wonderful fresh and dried pasta out there so this is one food where I'm happy to let the experts do the work. I have made fresh gnocchi as a fun project once or twice.
Pesto: Make and Buy it.
Hassle: None- just a few ingredients needing a whirl in the food processor.
Notes: I make pesto in summer when basil is plentiful (always with walnuts and not pine nuts); other times I will occasionally buy it.
Soup: Make it!
Hassle: Who cares? Soup should be made at home.
Notes: I did not eat canned soups growing up, so I don't have any nostalgia for canned soups- they taste awful to me. Instead, I've collected a repertoire of soup recipes that are very easy to make and provide both comfort and nourishment.
Cookies: Make and buy.
Hassle: The usual moderate hassle of baking, but most people will agree that cookies are fun to make.
Notes: I have a few favorite brands of cookies that I can't resist buying once in a while (cough Trader Joe's Triple Ginger cookies cough). But I like to bake cookies and have my favorite cookie recipes that I make most often in the holidays. My policy on cookies, and sweets in general, is that I won't eat one unless it is excellent- no sense in wasting calories. Ditto for candy, I like making candy for gift-giving and will sometimes buy candy from excellent confectioners but I stay far far away from the horrid stuff in the supermarket candy aisle.
Cake: Make it (and not from a mix).
Hassle: Cakes are simple and fun to make. Sure, there's some clean up at the end.
Notes: Homemade cake is probably not all that cost-saving because cake mixes are so cheap, but I'll keep making cakes from scratch anyway. I don't like the ingredient list on cake mixes and I'd rather save on packaging waste.
Granola: Make it.
Hassle: Very little, just mix ingredients in a bowl and bake. Here's our favorite recipe.
Notes: Store-bought granola is ridiculously expensive; it is so easy to make your own and you can fully customize it.
Oatmeal: Make it.
Hassle: None.
Notes: I find the stuff in the packets completely inedible. On the other hand, old-fashioned oats cooked in almond milk, eaten warm with fruit, nut butter- now that's good eats, and easy to do even on the busiest morning.
Hot chocolate: Make it.
Hassle: Minimal.
Notes: Making the mix at home is super easy and they make nice gifts. I've never found a store-bought cocoa mix that I like anyway.
Dips: Make it.
Hassle: Dips are very easy to make, and even easier with a food processor.
Notes: Some of my favorite go-to dips are caramelized onion dip, sweet potato hummus and guacamole.
Thai curry paste: Buy it.
Hassle: Sourcing the ingredients is a major hassle for most of us.
Notes: I can make vegetable-rich curries in a jiffy with canned curry paste so it is an important pantry staple for me. Brands like Maesri make very good Thai curry paste.
Coconut milk: Buy it.
Hassle: For someone living in a small town in the US, it is a huge hassle to find a decent coconut.
Notes: Canned coconut milk is an absolute pantry staple for me. I love the Chaokoh brand. I never bother to buy low-fat coconut milk. If I want to cut the calories (and I rarely do), I'll water it down myself.
Ice cream: Make and buy.
Hassle: Depends on the recipe. In my case, I also need to remember to freeze the ice cream maker bowl.
Notes: I'll happily make ice cream several times each Spring/Summer but I also don't mind buying good-quality ice cream once in a while to go with homemade brownies or apple pie.
Lemonade: Make it.
Hassle: None. Stir lemon juice and sugar into water.
Notes: Indians like salt in lemonade too.
Salty snacks: Make and Buy
Hassle: Deep-frying is the biggest of all hassles for me, personally, so any snack that requires deep-frying is too much of a hassle. Other snacks that don't require frying are not much of a hassle at all.
Notes: I buy potato chips and tortilla chips. Popcorn I make from scratch on the stove top. Chivda and chex mix and spiced nuts are easy and fun to make. Crackers I prefer to buy.
There are many other things, such as ketchup and mustard, mayonnaise, creme fraiche, vanilla extract and fruit vinegar, that I would love to make at home sometime, but the truth is that I use so little of these ingredients that it just does not seem worth it to me. In general, if I find that we're consuming a fair bit of something- granola, yogurt- I'll make an effort to make it in my kitchen.
Other recipes for usually-store-bought-treats can be enjoyable weekend projects. I remember getting together with my BFF Neighbor Girl years ago to make pretzels one hot summer afternoon. It was such a memorable experience even though I haven't made them since.
With some other things, making a food/drink at home can be astoundingly cost saving. An example is this cold brewed coffee. Costs probably 1/10 of the cold coffee with the fancy name that one could be sucking down in the coffee shop all summer. In my book, these recipes are totally worth learning.
Now, it's your turn: What do you make and what do you buy? Tell us in the comments!
Image: Goodreads |
While setting up the premise of the book, Reese mentions Uncrustables- the frozen (and crustless) peanut butter and jelly sandwiches sold by the brand Smuckers. I completely identified with this example because I remember being completely baffled and annoyed when I heard about this particular product many years ago. My inner monologue went something like this: They sell frozen PB & J because it is too much work to slap some peanut butter (from a jar) and jam (from another jar) onto bread (from a bag)? Come. On. What is the world coming to, blah blah. But Reese talks about how, not too long ago, people would have been equally baffled by the fact that someone would buy bread or peanut butter or jam at a store instead of making their own. She points out that it is rather an arbitrary line about what one buys and what one makes.
Reese goes on to discuss dozens of foods, and her take on whether it should be bought or made from scratch. And she's dead serious about trying to make things from scratch- she keeps chickens for eggs and meat, and bees for honey. She sweats away in the kitchen making things like glazed donuts and hot dogs from scratch. Even though I pretty much skipped over her chapters on keeping livestock and curing meats, it was incredibly fun to follow along and see what her experiences were like. For each food, she issues her verdict: Make it or buy it? And how much hassle is involved in making it?
It goes without saying that how one weighs cost, time, taste and hassle is very subjective and each home cook would have their own line in the sand, so to speak, about what to make and what to buy. As an aside, I've seen peeled hard-boiled eggs sold in a plastic pouch (Trader Joe's) so I guess these lines in the sand can be miles apart.
Based on my personal experience, here's a list in similar style to this book, about what I choose to make and what I buy. This list has evolved since I started to cook, and will further change as I go along, I'm sure of it.
Ghee: Make it.
Hassle: Minimal; you only have to occasionally watch a pot of simmering butter for an hour or so. And I do buy the butter- unsalted.
Notes: Homemade ghee tastes wonderful and it is a staple part of my favorite comfort food dinners like varan-bhaat and khichdi and to make ghee rice and peas pulao for company. I'm spoiled now and I won't ever go back to buying ghee.
Yogurt: Make it.
Hassle: Minimal; you simply stir live yogurt cultures into warm milk and leave it in a warm spot for a few hours before refrigerating.
Notes: There are so many reasons to switch to making yogurt at home. Homemade yogurt tastes fantastic- none of the sticky texture of some brands you buy. You can strain it to make Greek-style yogurt. Making yogurt at home saves money and packaging. I use yogurt in place of sour cream in most recipes.
Paneer: Buy it.
Hassle: Not much hassle, actually. Just add lemon juice to boiling milk, strain away the whey and press the solids.
Notes: It takes a whole lotta milk to make a small amount of paneer, and my homemade paneer is never as soft and tasty as my favorite brand- Nanak from Canada. We use paneer only once in a while, anyway. So I've stopped making it at home.
Idli and dosa batter: Make it.
Hassle: It takes a little planning to soak and grind and ferment the batter but is easy enough if you own a good mixie or stone electric grinder.
Notes: My friend in Atlanta and my sister in Bangalore, for instance, don't make their own idli/dosa batter because they have access to freshly made batter sold locally. I don't have that option and I'm fine with that. I happily use my grinder to make vast quantities of batter. And I can make customize the batter with brown rice or whatever else.
Rotis: Buy it.
Hassle: Kneading, rolling and griddle-baking; technically not too much of a hassle but roti making is a skill for sure.
Notes: I am singularly untalented when it comes to making rotis. They turn out too chewy or dense and just not very appealing. I buy whole-wheat tortillas to use as rotis. If you can, make them by all means.
Bread, including sliced bread, rolls and pizza crust: Make and buy.
Hassle: Bread making is certainly a hassle what with mixing and kneading (of course there are all the no-knead recipes), rising, baking, worrying, washing up. But bread making is also therapeutic and the aroma of baking bread makes a house smell like home. There are some things money can't buy.
Notes: Over the years, I've made lots of bread and bought lots of it too. When you have time, it is so worth making bread.
Beans: Make it.
Hassle: With a pressure cooker, there's no hassle at all. You just need to remember to soak the beans overnight if possible.
Notes: Dried beans are much cheaper than canned ones and they taste better to me. But I do keep a couple of cans of beans at home for really busy days when I need a last minute meal.
Spices: Make and buy (and swap).
Hassle: Minimal hassle to make spice mixes- you just need a small spice/coffee grinder.
Notes: In the US, "ethnic" stores such as the ones where Indian groceries are sold are a good source for fresh and inexpensive spices compared to supermarkets and gourmet stores. Once you buy whole spices, it is easy to make your own blends. But there are certain brands of spice mixes that I also like to buy.
Ginger Garlic Paste: Make it.
Hassle: It takes only a few minutes to peel and roughly chop fresh ginger and garlic, then 1-2 more minutes to blend it into a smooth paste with a little salt.
Notes: I've used bottled ginger garlic paste for years before I made my own, and it worked fine. Make it if you have time, otherwise, buy it. But it is an awesome fridge staple for quick, tasty meals so keep it on hand no matter what.
Tamarind chutney: Make it.
Hassle: None, just simmer a few ingredients together on the stove- my recipe is here and these days I just simmer baking dates (sold in a slab), tamarind paste and jaggery for a no-straining-required version.
Notes: Homemade tamarind chutney is cheaper and tastier than anything you can buy. And you'll use dates instead of loading it up with refined sugar. There's also the question of whether to buy tamarind (and extract the pulp yourself) or whether to buy tamarind paste. I've done both; these days I use tamarind paste that comes in a jar.
Pickles: Make and Buy it.
Hassle: Not much hassle to just clean and chop veggies and mix with spices.
Notes: Although it is easy enough to make pickles, and there are so many wonderful recipes out there, I do end up buying bottled Indian pickles while occasionally making my own. I'd love to make pickles this summer- both Indian style and pickled cucumbers in vinegar/brine, American style.
Jam: Buy it.
Hassle: Canning scares me. On the other hand, freezer jam seems to be very easy to make.
Notes: I buy good quality jam and marmalade (and often get these as gifts). We eat jam so rarely that it doesn't seem worthwhile to make it.
Peanut Butter, Almond Butter, Tahini: Buy it.
Hassle: Minimal, cleaning sticky nut butter from the food processor is probably the only hassle here.
Notes: It is too easy to buy good quality nut butters so that's what I do. I might try making peanut butter in the future though.
Pasta Sauce: Make it.
Hassle: Not much hassle at all to simmer tomato sauce on the stove, especially if you start with canned tomatoes as I do.
Notes: Bottled/jarred pasta sauce is likely to be loaded with salt and sugar and various things that have no place in pasta sauce so it is completely worthwhile to make your own.
Pasta and noodles: Buy it.
Hassle: Quite a hassle, and most recipes call for a pasta maker.
Notes: There's so much wonderful fresh and dried pasta out there so this is one food where I'm happy to let the experts do the work. I have made fresh gnocchi as a fun project once or twice.
Pesto: Make and Buy it.
Hassle: None- just a few ingredients needing a whirl in the food processor.
Notes: I make pesto in summer when basil is plentiful (always with walnuts and not pine nuts); other times I will occasionally buy it.
Soup: Make it!
Hassle: Who cares? Soup should be made at home.
Notes: I did not eat canned soups growing up, so I don't have any nostalgia for canned soups- they taste awful to me. Instead, I've collected a repertoire of soup recipes that are very easy to make and provide both comfort and nourishment.
Cookies: Make and buy.
Hassle: The usual moderate hassle of baking, but most people will agree that cookies are fun to make.
Notes: I have a few favorite brands of cookies that I can't resist buying once in a while (cough Trader Joe's Triple Ginger cookies cough). But I like to bake cookies and have my favorite cookie recipes that I make most often in the holidays. My policy on cookies, and sweets in general, is that I won't eat one unless it is excellent- no sense in wasting calories. Ditto for candy, I like making candy for gift-giving and will sometimes buy candy from excellent confectioners but I stay far far away from the horrid stuff in the supermarket candy aisle.
Cake: Make it (and not from a mix).
Hassle: Cakes are simple and fun to make. Sure, there's some clean up at the end.
Notes: Homemade cake is probably not all that cost-saving because cake mixes are so cheap, but I'll keep making cakes from scratch anyway. I don't like the ingredient list on cake mixes and I'd rather save on packaging waste.
Granola: Make it.
Hassle: Very little, just mix ingredients in a bowl and bake. Here's our favorite recipe.
Notes: Store-bought granola is ridiculously expensive; it is so easy to make your own and you can fully customize it.
Oatmeal: Make it.
Hassle: None.
Notes: I find the stuff in the packets completely inedible. On the other hand, old-fashioned oats cooked in almond milk, eaten warm with fruit, nut butter- now that's good eats, and easy to do even on the busiest morning.
Hot chocolate: Make it.
Hassle: Minimal.
Notes: Making the mix at home is super easy and they make nice gifts. I've never found a store-bought cocoa mix that I like anyway.
Dips: Make it.
Hassle: Dips are very easy to make, and even easier with a food processor.
Notes: Some of my favorite go-to dips are caramelized onion dip, sweet potato hummus and guacamole.
Thai curry paste: Buy it.
Hassle: Sourcing the ingredients is a major hassle for most of us.
Notes: I can make vegetable-rich curries in a jiffy with canned curry paste so it is an important pantry staple for me. Brands like Maesri make very good Thai curry paste.
Coconut milk: Buy it.
Hassle: For someone living in a small town in the US, it is a huge hassle to find a decent coconut.
Notes: Canned coconut milk is an absolute pantry staple for me. I love the Chaokoh brand. I never bother to buy low-fat coconut milk. If I want to cut the calories (and I rarely do), I'll water it down myself.
Ice cream: Make and buy.
Hassle: Depends on the recipe. In my case, I also need to remember to freeze the ice cream maker bowl.
Notes: I'll happily make ice cream several times each Spring/Summer but I also don't mind buying good-quality ice cream once in a while to go with homemade brownies or apple pie.
Lemonade: Make it.
Hassle: None. Stir lemon juice and sugar into water.
Notes: Indians like salt in lemonade too.
Salty snacks: Make and Buy
Hassle: Deep-frying is the biggest of all hassles for me, personally, so any snack that requires deep-frying is too much of a hassle. Other snacks that don't require frying are not much of a hassle at all.
Notes: I buy potato chips and tortilla chips. Popcorn I make from scratch on the stove top. Chivda and chex mix and spiced nuts are easy and fun to make. Crackers I prefer to buy.
There are many other things, such as ketchup and mustard, mayonnaise, creme fraiche, vanilla extract and fruit vinegar, that I would love to make at home sometime, but the truth is that I use so little of these ingredients that it just does not seem worth it to me. In general, if I find that we're consuming a fair bit of something- granola, yogurt- I'll make an effort to make it in my kitchen.
Other recipes for usually-store-bought-treats can be enjoyable weekend projects. I remember getting together with my BFF Neighbor Girl years ago to make pretzels one hot summer afternoon. It was such a memorable experience even though I haven't made them since.
With some other things, making a food/drink at home can be astoundingly cost saving. An example is this cold brewed coffee. Costs probably 1/10 of the cold coffee with the fancy name that one could be sucking down in the coffee shop all summer. In my book, these recipes are totally worth learning.
Now, it's your turn: What do you make and what do you buy? Tell us in the comments!